September 09, 2008 New York
Dell'Acqua's stated theme, ironically, was suspension, and by the third look it was clear what he meant by that: Iris Strubegger appeared in a sort of tiered "lobster dress," bands of fabric hung on gossamer tulle (a very modern homage, perhaps, to Dell'Acqua's favorite designer, Charles James). Boxy, tailored, sleeveless jackets had a tough, deconstructed vibe thanks to the use of suspension barsa familiar concept to Ralph Rucci fans. Adding some celebratory sparkle to the proceedings were jeweled tulle inserts here and there. Dell'Acqua's well-edited dress parade also included two goddess gowns in a cashmere so light-gauge it would have made even Botticelli envious.
But although Dell'Acqua's collection served up sophisticated, trend-aware clothes on the half shell, as it were, the suspense on the retail end remains: Sure there are pearls (and purls) to be found here, but will the fashion-forward customer think to look for them at Malo?