Marni
MILAN, September 24, 2008
By Sarah Mower
It's one of the highest accolades for any label when it can be said, by all and sundry, insiders and outsiders, that it "owns" a look. Marni has reached that serene plateau of development and is reveling in undisputed ownership of print, color, and the magpie mix-up. That means never having to grasp nervously for an extraneous trend. Downbeat dressing? Restraint and somber color? Not heard of here.Among her multi-textured, many-layered spots, stripes, blurry checks, painterly abstracts, harlequin lozenges, and splashy fifties flowers, Consuelo Castiglioni wove in an untrammeled sense of optimism and continuity. Her striped and frill-fronted cardigans; sparkly loop-fringe mini boleros; and dense, shimmery embroideries of multicolored spiky plastic paillettes were just some of the star moments. The bigger success, though, is how Castiglioni flings it all together, ties it up in the middle, adds a kneesock and a clunky platform, and yet still somehow manages to stop short of busy confusion. That simple/complicated knack is what keeps Marni lovers coming back for more, as well as the knowledge that the collection is a cherry picker's bonanza full of pieces that lend themselves to myriad personal styles.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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