Missoni
MILAN, September 22, 2008
By Sarah Mower
For the best of Missoni, scroll to the end. There, for evening, were examples of the exceptional things this house can tease out of a knitting machine: a tissue-fine, fan-pleated Lurex halter gown in an almost colorless beige; a glinting semi-sheer skirt under a belted knit blazer. Those were the high points of a show in which Angela Missoni continued to steer the family business along the grown-up course she's been charting for the past couple of seasons.The general drift of the main body of the collection was a merging of vaguely Japanese-influenced shapes (kimono sleeves, obi belts) with surface patterns derived from Italian futurist art, worked in a palette of beige, muted coral, cocoa, and absinthe. Beneath that, Missoni seemed to be setting herself the task of figuring out how jumpsuits and big, drop-crotch pants can make sense for regular public consumption. Her answer was all-in-ones ending in short, divided skorts on the one hand, and a pair of voluminous dark green taffeta evening skirt-cum-pants on the other. On the cute—and very recognizably Missoni—side, there was a zigzag raschel knit swimsuit, along with plenty of easy caftan-style cover-ups. These, like the evening dresses, clicked more easily into the picture of long summer leisure days that gives this house its identity.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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