Ed Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff have been on a slow burn in London. Last season, their long, sinuous silhouettes in romantic navy-and-black lace and chiffon garnered them an underground following. The question was, how could that dark, goth sensibility shift gears for Spring?

The answer wasn't immediately clear when they opened with sheer black organza tailoring, but when they brought on their ideas about hybrid jean-leggings, the show hit its stride. The top half of an outfit might be a slick black tunic or a shirt encrusted with what Ed Meadham calls "rotting lace"; it's what was going on below that drew every eye in the house. Their cool amalgams of denim, armor, and motocross leathers, patched together from shredded indigo denim, articulated kneepads, cross-lacing, and zippers turned out to be handmade. Quite how these could be industrially manufactured in this exact form is hard to see, but Meadham and Kirchhoff are onto something. Ever more extreme and decorative ways of dressing the leg are taking off this season, and if this pair figures out a simplified way to make theirs accessible, they could have a hit on their hands.