Meadham Kirchhoff
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 18, 2008
By Sarah Mower
Ed Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff have been on a slow burn in London. Last season, their long, sinuous silhouettes in romantic navy-and-black lace and chiffon garnered them an underground following. The question was, how could that dark, goth sensibility shift gears for Spring?The answer wasn't immediately clear when they opened with sheer black organza tailoring, but when they brought on their ideas about hybrid jean-leggings, the show hit its stride. The top half of an outfit might be a slick black tunic or a shirt encrusted with what Ed Meadham calls "rotting lace"; it's what was going on below that drew every eye in the house. Their cool amalgams of denim, armor, and motocross leathers, patched together from shredded indigo denim, articulated kneepads, cross-lacing, and zippers turned out to be handmade. Quite how these could be industrially manufactured in this exact form is hard to see, but Meadham and Kirchhoff are onto something. Ever more extreme and decorative ways of dressing the leg are taking off this season, and if this pair figures out a simplified way to make theirs accessible, they could have a hit on their hands.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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