September 18, 2008 London
This season, Koroma and Jones based their ideas on wedding trousseaux, using lace, tulle, and organdy in ornate dresses and sheer blouses. If some of it was overworked and problematic to wear (stiff panniers and peplums; lots of exposed bras), the simplest numbers came out well (a pristine white brocade pantsuit; a violet chiffon dress with a gathered neckline, bloused into the waist with a ribbon sash; a chic navy drop-waist dress with a wrap-over neckline and a flippy skirt). Clearly, these designers don't need any lessons about fabric and how to use it. What they still have to nail, though, is the art of making a concise statement without artsy trappings. Maybe if they weren't so anxious to prove themselves, it would flow more easily. They should relax, and make it simpler.