Marios Schwab
LONDON, September 15, 2008
By Sarah Mower
In the past three or four seasons, Marios Schwab has brought a precocious level of rigorous, scientific thinking and research to his runway. This season, however, he moved away from one-note drama, like last Spring's anatomical dissection, to a collection that touched on many themes—the draped Greek chiton, the rope-bound "wrapping" work of Christo, a bit of the beige-suede eighties, and some sportswear.In other words, it was confusing. What were drapey jersey gowns and all-in-ones doing in the same breath as structured, cutout suede dresses or, indeed, printed T-shirts? Backstage Schwab's explanation didn't fully articulate what was going on. He might've thought that it's a good time to sell accessibly—along with those printed T-shirts, there were swimsuits and drapey beach cover-ups that could find their way into any boutique. That sort of brand extension is a first for Schwab, but with a top line of items that are going to be a tough sell (a jersey jumpsuit slashed open from the ankle all the way up the inside of the leg, for one), it's hard to know whether it's going to have anything more than a lukewarm appeal.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
