In the past three or four seasons, Marios Schwab has brought a precocious level of rigorous, scientific thinking and research to his runway. This season, however, he moved away from one-note drama, like last Spring's anatomical dissection, to a collection that touched on many themes—the draped Greek chiton, the rope-bound "wrapping" work of Christo, a bit of the beige-suede eighties, and some sportswear.

In other words, it was confusing. What were drapey jersey gowns and all-in-ones doing in the same breath as structured, cutout suede dresses or, indeed, printed T-shirts? Backstage Schwab's explanation didn't fully articulate what was going on. He might've thought that it's a good time to sell accessibly—along with those printed T-shirts, there were swimsuits and drapey beach cover-ups that could find their way into any boutique. That sort of brand extension is a first for Schwab, but with a top line of items that are going to be a tough sell (a jersey jumpsuit slashed open from the ankle all the way up the inside of the leg, for one), it's hard to know whether it's going to have anything more than a lukewarm appeal.