Narciso Rodriguez
NEW YORK, September 9, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
"Rocking ninja-star action!" No, it's not some new video game; it's how Narciso Rodriguez summed up his Spring collection. He's never been a floral-print man, but this season New York's most rigorous designer really amped up the edginess with, yes, ninja-star prints and ninja-star bugle-bead embroidery, one-sleeved bandage dresses, and studded bodices that evoked armor. Even the tailoring with which he started the show had something of the warrior to it: The collar- and lapel-less zip-closure jackets he's been experimenting with the last couple of seasons came with newly rounded yet strong shoulders reminiscent of the traditional gis of karate masters.The elevated sense of sexiness didn't come at the expense of pretty, however. There were more colors—sage, kelly green, red, salmon pink, rust, and nude—than in his last several collections combined. The banding motif that he employed throughout (strips of fabric, usually in a contrasting color or fabric arranged geometrically on the front and back of tops and dresses) served to amplify his models' hourglass curves. And then there were the cutouts, more daring than ever before, a provocative flash of skin below the bust or crisscrossing bodice straps that exposed the ribs and swaths of the models' backs. You couldn't exactly call it freewheeling, but this was Rodriguez at his loosest and best.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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