Oscar de la Renta
NEW YORK, September 10, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
The first look out, a color-blocked and belted maillot worn by a model who was nothing but legs, suggested that things might go in a bold new direction chez de la Renta this season. But that short, sharp opening salvo was quickly followed by more familiar Oscar-isms: the crisp white blouse with the dirndl skirt, the soft-structure pantsuit, the navy or black cocktail sheath—much of it accessorized with brooches, multistrand necklaces, and drop earrings. Among the show's most compelling pieces were Coco Rocha's white coat with super-graphic navy harlequin embroidery and her strapless peplum gown made from the same high-contrast materials. There were also plenty of luxurious fabrics to swoon over, such as the gray, blue, and silver brocade of a short-sleeve sway-back coat, or the painterly floral print of a silk faille strapless gown.Everything was perfectly beautiful, maybe a bit too much so. You wanted to see de la Renta loosen up, play more to the J.Lo crowd (the pop diva's appearance caused quite a commotion) and less to the ladies who lunch. After all, he doesn't have to work for the latter's devotion; he owns it. The first step is to pare back on some of the heavy jewelry and the second is to leave the weekend bags in the showroom. That way, the clothes can do the talking.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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