Philosophy
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 9, 2008
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Sporty isn't a word that springs to mind when you think of Alberta Ferretti, a refined woman who creates refined clothes. But suddenly there was sporty, all over her Spring Philosophy collection.The Italian designer zoomed in on the parka, reimagining it with subtle yet sparkly embellishments and adding straps so that the models could wear them suspended, capelike, from their shoulders. Underneath were ensembles that were deliberate studies in contrast: plenty of lovely, prototypical Ferretti dresses—the loveliest in a maxi length—done in subtle color combinations or Indian prints and topped with beaded corsetlike harnesses (a nod to her interest in the Pre-Raphaelite painter Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema). The dresses, though, were as unsurprising as they were accomplished. What gave the collection its panache was the combination of the expected and the unexpected. Military touches also added to the frisson of something new afoot. There were some really great army-green pants and shorts that proved Philosophy can, indeed, be just as right for the kind of customer who gets collared on the sidewalk by street-style photographers as they are for the kind of customer who gets shot by Patrick McMullan.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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