3.1 Phillip Lim
NEW YORK, September 10, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
The elaborate blond wood Moorish arches at the mouth of the runway were an obvious clue that Phillip Lim was about to hitch a ride onto a Spanish caravan for Spring. Far from rehashing flamenco skirts, the designer extracted a few choice motifs from his Andalusian inspiration. Foremost was the ruffle, which fluttered on the back flaps of chiffon trenchcoats and wobbled in tightly mashed form atop the bright Christian Louboutin pumps, but most often it came slightly flattened and unevenly tiered on the hems of garçon jackets and knit dresses. There was also a flash of mantilla fringe, and dresses and coats with the geometric echo of those mosques-turned-cathedrals.When it comes to his ever-growing business, however, Lim's focus goes beyond Iberia to the global front. And it's that international market's demand for more fashion ("they want the crazy," he said, a few days before the show) that encouraged him to be in experimental mode. But Lim's version of Direction for the Masses—heightened by skewed-bun hairdos and kooky double-loop belts in which many saw strains of Viktor & Rolf—was a bit overdone. There are undeniably great pieces in this collection, but Lim occupies a strange orbit in the fashion universe as the contemporary designer who garners attention equal to his higher-priced counterparts. Now that everyone's listening, sending a cohesive message of brand identity may be the next step.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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