September 17, 2008 London
The secret behind this apparent overnight success is that it's nothing of the kind. The label has been around for a couple of years, and there are two heads behind the scenes: Pilotto himself, an Austrian who graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2004 and specializes in prints, and Christopher De Vos, who was formerly at Vivienne Westwood and has a genius for draping a dress. Since they began working together, they've developed a distinct signature, certainty about what they're doing, and the know-how to achieve it. (The collection is already selling on net-a-porter.com and at Matches in London, and to give a flavor of the label's insider fan base, model and Jefferson Hack's significant other Anouck Lepère wore one of Pilotto's galaxy-print tunic dresses from last season to a Lanvin dinner the night before the up-and-comer's presentation.) Pilotto is the only designer to be selected this season for a New Generation-sponsored runway show. Quality, not quantity, is what counts when it comes to promoting talent.