Peter Pilotto
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 18, 2008
By Sarah Mower
In a season when too many so-so, green, and frankly unprepared young designers have been jostling for attention on London runways, Peter Pilotto outclassed the lot at a stroke. From the twisted and draped dresses to the molded jackets, every piece in the collection—even the ones that appeared to be in one-color fabrics—was treated to print effects derived from butterfly wings and the look of natural mineral deposits. The success of it, though, was the way Pilotto managed to control all that surface interest into clothes that looked so special, modern, and uncontrived that many in the audience were wondering just how quickly they could race backstage to place a personal order.The secret behind this apparent overnight success is that it's nothing of the kind. The label has been around for a couple of years, and there are two heads behind the scenes: Pilotto himself, an Austrian who graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2004 and specializes in prints, and Christopher De Vos, who was formerly at Vivienne Westwood and has a genius for draping a dress. Since they began working together, they've developed a distinct signature, certainty about what they're doing, and the know-how to achieve it. (The collection is already selling on net-a-porter.com and at Matches in London, and to give a flavor of the label's insider fan base, model and Jefferson Hack's significant other Anouck Lepère wore one of Pilotto's galaxy-print tunic dresses from last season to a Lanvin dinner the night before the up-and-comer's presentation.) Pilotto is the only designer to be selected this season for a New Generation-sponsored runway show. Quality, not quantity, is what counts when it comes to promoting talent.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
