The late sixties have been popping up here and there on New York's runways, so it wasn't all that surprising to hear Justin Thornton—his partner, Thea Bregazzi, is at home in London expecting their first child—cite Easy Rider and Jimi Hendrix as influences. But if they were reference points, they were loose ones, and the collection fell into two distinct groups: the soft volumes Thornton and Bregazzi have been exploring since they began showing here three seasons ago, and the hard, body-conscious looks that were all the rage in London before they left.

The show opened with an example of the latter: a white one-shoulder cocktail dress with cutouts at the ribs inset with a wide mesh. Next came a denim-looking silk button-down blouse tucked into matching genie pants with slouchy pockets and fabric pooling at the ankles. Back-and-forth it went like that—tiny dresses in white, red, or black, some with caged backs, laces crisscrossing the shoulder blades, others with mesh slips peeking a few inches below the hem, followed by weightless silk or chiffon cut into drawstring-waist dresses and anoraks that floated on the breeze in the model's wake. Thornton and Bregazzi didn't exactly break new ground here, but the sexy clothes should go a ways in raising the London designers' profile stateside.