Preen
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 7, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
The late sixties have been popping up here and there on New York's runways, so it wasn't all that surprising to hear Justin Thornton—his partner, Thea Bregazzi, is at home in London expecting their first child—cite Easy Rider and Jimi Hendrix as influences. But if they were reference points, they were loose ones, and the collection fell into two distinct groups: the soft volumes Thornton and Bregazzi have been exploring since they began showing here three seasons ago, and the hard, body-conscious looks that were all the rage in London before they left.The show opened with an example of the latter: a white one-shoulder cocktail dress with cutouts at the ribs inset with a wide mesh. Next came a denim-looking silk button-down blouse tucked into matching genie pants with slouchy pockets and fabric pooling at the ankles. Back-and-forth it went like that—tiny dresses in white, red, or black, some with caged backs, laces crisscrossing the shoulder blades, others with mesh slips peeking a few inches below the hem, followed by weightless silk or chiffon cut into drawstring-waist dresses and anoraks that floated on the breeze in the model's wake. Thornton and Bregazzi didn't exactly break new ground here, but the sexy clothes should go a ways in raising the London designers' profile stateside.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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