Proenza Schouler
NEW YORK, September 8, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Say good-bye to last season's frills. For Spring, Proenza Schouler switched gears. "It's much tougher," said Jack McCollough before a show that carried a strong eighties vibe in the form of big shoulders, high-waisted tapering pants, parachute silks, and more jumpsuits than you could count. "It's not so much about toughness," corrected his partner, Lazaro Hernandez, "as it is about confidence." He could've been talking about the duo's frame of mind as much as the clothes themselves. The money they made selling a portion of their company to the Valentino Group last year has not only given them opportunities—they launched a full-scale accessories collection at today's show—it's also freed them to take risks. Witness those accessories. There wasn't a plain-Jane pump in the bunch; instead, fuzzy bedroom slippers came with heels that looked like giant drill bits. And there were new mirrored versions of the cool, round sunglasses that every second editor has been sporting this week.Blouses and coats with dolman sleeves, the selvedges exposed on the outside of the arm seams, were just as fearless, and they were worn by a parade of models with long hair cascading down one side of the face à la Jerry Hall. It made for some striking imagery, though at times the wearability of the clothes clearly suffered for all the high concepts. Luckily, that wasn't the whole story: After all, these It boys have It girls like Mary-Kate Olsen and Nicole Richie to keep in signature bra-cup tops (this season, they were rendered in black leather) and stretchy knit dresses. As for those jumpsuits—by day, worn belted over sheer, sleeveless button-downs, and by night stitched in swirls of silver or black and white bugle beads (very Last Days of Disco)—they could very well be a surprise hit at retail.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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