Emilio Pucci
MILAN, September 25, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
The press notes said Matthew Williamson looked to Capri for inspiration. The island, of course, was the birthplace of the house of Pucci some 40-odd years ago, but it's not entirely certain that its founder, Emilio, would have recognized this collection as a descendant of his own.Yes, there were the signature graphic and swirling prints done up in shades of orange, pink, blue, yellow, and white, as well as beach-friendly caftans and bathing suits. But other pieces (a clingy minidress in a jungle-cat print with net insets and sleeves, a cropped jacket in a purple and aqua palm-frond print) had an eighties-by-way-of-a-Miami-club vibe that just doesn't seem to jibe with the house's more blue-blooded soul. Still, there were a few hits, including one allover sequined dress in an update of a house print. It didn't necessarily scream "sixties Italian Riviera jet set," but it did look like now.
This show was Matthew Williamson's swan song: His three-year contract is soon to expire. Peter Dundas—who has worked for Roberto Cavalli, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Christian Lacroix (himself an alumnus of Pucci)—is up next. It'll be interesting to watch him try to whirl together a look that's respectful of the brand and yet new.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
