Rag & Bone
NEW YORK, September 5, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
David Neville and Marcus Wainwright continue to put down roots here in NYC—the design partners opened their first-ever Rag & Bone store on Christopher Street earlier this week—but for Spring it was their native England that captured the designers' imaginations. Specifically, they took their cues from their birthplace's musical subcultures—punk, mod, ska, etc.—and the uniforms associated with each. On the men's side, it translated quite literally; there were exposed zippers, braces, and precisely cuffed pants. On the women's side, it informed a silhouette: fitted jackets and checked button-downs with matching narrow ties, worn over stovepipe pants tapering to a tight ankle above stacked heels. It also spiked the mood: tough and rough around the edges, thanks to studded cuffs and belts and stringy hair, not to mention the dangerously short hemlines on miniskirts and clingy dresses.There were some great pieces to pull out of the mix—tiny washed-leather jackets, one in black, another in caution yellow; a tweedy pantsuit; the carbon-blue jeans—but the show fell short on a couple of fronts. For one, the British music scene is a favorite point of reference for designers, and even if Neville and Wainwright have more of a right than most to explore it, there's bound to be a sense that it's all been done before. More surprisingly, the fit on one or two of their double-breasted jackets looked off. For a more consistent sense of the good work that this duo is capable of, head first to their new store.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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