October 02, 2008
After stumbling a bit with a Fall collection that was heavy on the disco references, Raffaele Borriello and Julien Desselle got themselves back on track with today's Requiem show. They haven't abandoned the ruffles, bows, and other couture treatments they like to indulge in, but working with the perhaps unlikely twin inspirations of Truman Capote's Black and White Ball and christening garments, they came up with something considerably lighter. For that, credit the crisp black, white, and silver palette as well as the short, leggy silhouettes. The belted cocktail dresses the duo showed have had many precedents this season (not that that will hurt at retail), but Borriello and Desselle also came up with a couple of unique numbers: a drop-waist sixties shift with black lace detailing at the high neck and a sheath with dégradé metal beading.