September 05, 2008
Before his show, José Ramón Réyes said his Spring collection was designed for a gallerina, a downtown art-world type who "isn't afraid of a little geek-chic." She'll have to be arty to pull off his asymmetrically draped dresses and the bra- and panty-revealing sheer neon jumpsuits that poufed out at the hips. This was a bold new direction for Réyes, who just last season moved from the contemporary to the entry-level designer price point, and not long before that was making user-friendly, on-trend sportswear. "Cute" is the word that comes to mind in connection with Réyes' earlier efforts, and the camp shirts he showed today fit that bill, with their epaulets at the shoulders and little ties at the neck. Most of his new offerings, though, could more aptly be described as challenging. That doesn't mean there isn't a girl out there for his multi-fabric collage dresses and the YSL-under-Pilati vests and drop-crotch tapered pantsbut she probably isn't the one who's been following his career so far.