Roksanda Ilincic has carved out a reputation as London's avant-garde dressmaker—following somewhere in the slipstream of Lanvin and Saint Laurent. She uses a limited number of materials—satin, silk, ribbon, and handmade haberdashery flowers—relying more on an artless happenstance of wrapping and tying than precision-cutting and finishing. No surprise, then, that her Spring show was much the same as always—except that for the first time her venue was a lofty gallery space rather than a cozy tearoom or restaurant.

The new location meant her models were free to waft past at a distance, trailing fuchsia satin bathrobes and puffs of net. "I wanted to be more calm this season, so I chose slightly less bright colors like nude, plum, and gray," she said. "And, oh, some peonies that look as if they've been nuked." That quirky sensibility translated into exaggerations of 3-D floral embroideries (one made up an entire hooded cape) and phases of white tulle, suggestive of bridalwear. The downsides? The loss of intimacy, and the way the space seemed to expose Ilincic's lack of couture skills.