September 16, 2008 London
The new location meant her models were free to waft past at a distance, trailing fuchsia satin bathrobes and puffs of net. "I wanted to be more calm this season, so I chose slightly less bright colors like nude, plum, and gray," she said. "And, oh, some peonies that look as if they've been nuked." That quirky sensibility translated into exaggerations of 3-D floral embroideries (one made up an entire hooded cape) and phases of white tulle, suggestive of bridalwear. The downsides? The loss of intimacy, and the way the space seemed to expose Ilincic's lack of couture skills.