Rue du Mail
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 3, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Emmanuelle Seigner, Joana Preiss, and Zoe Cassavetes might've been sporting their undone Paris best—hair that hasn't seen a brush in days, scarves, and boots—but Martine Sitbon's two-year-old Rue du Mail label is increasingly becoming about the ornate details. Nearly every surface was worked, from the micro-pleated panels on organza and leather jackets to the origami tucks and folds on strapless dresses worn over sheer knit tanks to another take on those 3-D shapes that have turned into such a big Spring trend. These last appeared on the back of a khaki trench, at the shoulders of a short-sleeved jacket, and at the hips of skirts and dresses.There were some keepers: The closing dress, with its collage of stripes and beads and cutouts, could've gone horribly wrong but really came together. As a whole, though, the collection was rather overwhelming, and the eye sought relief. It came in the form of a quiet-by-comparison peplum jacket in black satin, and sexy cigarette pants—a look that's definitely more those front-row girls' speed.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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