Emmanuelle Seigner, Joana Preiss, and Zoe Cassavetes might've been sporting their undone Paris best—hair that hasn't seen a brush in days, scarves, and boots—but Martine Sitbon's two-year-old Rue du Mail label is increasingly becoming about the ornate details. Nearly every surface was worked, from the micro-pleated panels on organza and leather jackets to the origami tucks and folds on strapless dresses worn over sheer knit tanks to another take on those 3-D shapes that have turned into such a big Spring trend. These last appeared on the back of a khaki trench, at the shoulders of a short-sleeved jacket, and at the hips of skirts and dresses.

There were some keepers: The closing dress, with its collage of stripes and beads and cutouts, could've gone horribly wrong but really came together. As a whole, though, the collection was rather overwhelming, and the eye sought relief. It came in the form of a quiet-by-comparison peplum jacket in black satin, and sexy cigarette pants—a look that's definitely more those front-row girls' speed.