Last season's boarding-school girl has run away to become a groupie. One part Kate Hudson in Almost Famous, another part Kate Moss at Glastonbury, she wears button-front tunics and maxi dresses in multicolored French lace. She pairs bronze or fuchsia crushed-velvet short shorts—and we mean short—with mutton-sleeve blouses and studded suede vests. And she has a thing for destroyed denim, faded and frayed by hand, and cut into tiny fitted jackets and blanket coats. (Oh, and a thing for fringed-suede Christian Louboutin ankle boots. You'll never see a pair of rubber wellies at a Ruffian show because their clients aren't the type to muck around in the mud.)

As groovy as that denim was, some of the other pieces looked a bit costumey, as if the models were playing dress up in their grandmother's closets. The show's best numbers—floaty tiers of chiffon in dégradé pastels—didn't look like Monterey circa 1967, they looked like today.