September 29, 2008 Paris
Nevertheless, there was a richness in this collection that Kokosalaki hasn't reached for before. She's always worked with leather, but this season she upgraded, patchworking burnished gold python into boleros, vests, and a top in which a single strap literally snaked across a shoulder like a cobra tail. That more detailed extravagance is a distinct step up and away from the dark, urban collections of the beginning of her career in London, but Kokosalaki is growing up now, reaching new markets and finding herself on the brink of the stage where she can develop her name further. That quiet progress was underlined by the jewelry visible in this collection: Snake-head slave bracelets, cuffs inset with semiprecious stones, and dangling gold earrings and diadems were the first sighting of her new line.