Tao Kurihara has a very distinctive silhouette: Often it's a little jacket with a lot of action at the neckline and shoulders, worn with an abbreviated bottom like a poufy skirt. She doesn't so much change it each season as couch it within a new reference. For Spring, her point of departure seemed to be Scottish bagpipers' gear. But leave it to this protégé of Rei Kawakubo to keep plaids (too clichéd!) out of the equation.

The first model exited in a short, sheer royal-blue jacket with frogging and brass buttons over a long, narrow tee and tight breeches, a high, fuzzy busby hat topping it off with tasseled kneesocks and brogues below. Kurihara worked her way through many variations on that idea—some toppers double-breasted, others cutaway in back—with pants hovering above or below the knee, a few done in horizontal stripes. Then, putting aside the uniform concept for a moment, she showed a trio of shrunken button-front shirts in bright, girlish flower prints. There were cheerful pop blooms on sheer plissé kilts, as well as on sweeter versions of the opening look. This was one entirely original Highland fling.