Temperley London
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 15, 2008
By Tim Blanks
Last year, the Dulwich Picture Gallery in London mounted an exhibition of the art of book illustration between the 1890's and the 1920's. It was called The Age of Enchantment, and it clearly made an impression on Alice Temperley, whose new collection was a feast of graphic flourishes culled from the work of people like Aubrey Beardsley and Edmund Dulac. The black detailing on a little white bolero, for instance, was evocative of Beardsley's line, while a draped white gown, gathered at the shoulders, looked like something a Dulac maiden might've worn. But the years covered by the exhibition were also the time of Bright Young Things in England and in Hollywood. It was easy to imagine Cecil Beaton's party girls dressing up as Diana the Huntress in one of Temperley's little silk tunics paired with gladiator sandals. And Rudolph Valentino's vampy arm candy would have gravitated toward harem pants in a black and white leopard print.Temperley called her collection "Romantic Odyssey," a pretty accurate description of the surfeit of ruffles, flounces, and classical draping. There were still outbreaks of that old Temperley sugariness (a floral romper suit, for instance), but the designer was tempered by a new sophistication. That made this a strong collection with which to return home after several seasons showing in New York.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
