Rocker tailoring with a touch of the goth is Todd Lynn's thing, and whatever the season, he's a guy who's never going to stray too far from that dark and sinuous path. For Spring, he whittled it to 33 looks, working some kind of eye-tricking device into almost every outfit. The first was a case in point: What looked like a shorts suit was actually an all-in-one. There followed several variations: tailcoats merged into pantsuits, and jackets and skirts that were actually dresses.

Beside this, Lynn drove himself to jigsaw rough, slubby fabric together to make skinny pants, and to work out how a series of pleats can spiral around a leg to create a flared trouser. Objectively, all that work was hard to achieve and technically accomplished. Subjectively, though? There's something about the tight, seamed, carapace shapes that screams "hard to wear," and the mood seemed too gloomy for a summer season.