Before their show, Thuy Pham and Miho Aoki did some spring cleaning, starting with a decision to present their menswear separately to make a bit of room for "optimism"— the pair's key word this season. Sweeping away their sometimes over-literal architectural references and what Pham describes as a tendency to "fuss over very complex pattern-making," they let in the light, allowing themselves to play with sunny pastels, zippy brights, and looser silhouettes.

James Iha provided an upbeat custom soundtrack that complemented a collection with two threads running through it: a soft preppiness and an origamilike construction. These two seemingly incongruous themes balanced harmoniously. Among the user-friendly twisted classics on the runway were a powdery-blue and white mattress-ticking dress; a roomy, hoodless parka; and a navy blue shorts suit that actually made the concept look like a viable wardrobe option. Pham said that the duo was "having a bit more fun" with this collection—and the audience was, too.