Undercover
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 29, 2008
By Sarah Mower
Jun Takahashi says he's bored of doing runway shows, so the all-white collection he presented was staged in a gallery, with fantasy art photos on the wall and a group of dummies in the center of the space. He'd named it "Graces," which turned out to be funny little half-dog, half-alien toy animals. Made by Takahashi himself in his Tokyo studio, they were perching on the shoulders of the mannequins. Quite what was going on with these "fairy tale" fluffy companions was hard to crack—possibly something to do with the Japanese love of the cute, combined with Takahashi's imagination as a subversive artist (his off-Harajuku workplace is full of his paintings and soft sculptures of doll-like monsters). As for the clothes, they were actually nothing conceptually freaky: layered sportswear, coats, and virginally romantic dresses with a lot of fine-thread fringing in the mix. The problem is that however you look at them, clothes on dummies don't have the animated appeal of clothes on a girl. Takahashi has every right to want to invent new ways of presenting (and it's a sensible way of thinking for cash-strapped young designers), but this season, it sold his clothes short.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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