Y-3
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 7, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
Considering that Y-3 is the same label that has, at various turns, brought us such big-budget spectacles as a three-story-high, logoed bank vault; an artificial thunderstorm; and a 230-foot wall of ice; today's minimal presentation couldn't possibly have been the result of something as banal as the failing economy. And it wasn't. The stark look of unfinished gray planks, embellished only by an installation of fluorescent tube lights (is it just us, or is New York having a Dan Flavin moment?), was entirely intentional. The press notes offered the cryptic seasonal principle of "a reflection on the tradition of sport," loosely connecting the new minimalism to Adidas' 60th anniversary and the simplicity of the triple stripe.Following suit, the clothes were somewhat underwhelming, with lots of black sporty separates edged in various places with a strip of triple stripe. These are the things that will presumably stock the shelves of Y-3's soon-to-be two New York stores. (A second one opens in Soho this Tuesday.) The Yohji direction was evident in some places: crinkled-mesh T-shirt dresses, some layered over striped or logoed tees; patch-pocketed dirndl skirts worn with bright tops; and the interesting idea of sliced shoulders and hanging sleeves. The show ended with a pair of brides, sneakers on and veils held in place by oversize baseball caps, mixing French tradition with American insanity. We'll call the look La Mariée Runaway.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
