Considering that Y-3 is the same label that has, at various turns, brought us such big-budget spectacles as a three-story-high, logoed bank vault; an artificial thunderstorm; and a 230-foot wall of ice; today's minimal presentation couldn't possibly have been the result of something as banal as the failing economy. And it wasn't. The stark look of unfinished gray planks, embellished only by an installation of fluorescent tube lights (is it just us, or is New York having a Dan Flavin moment?), was entirely intentional. The press notes offered the cryptic seasonal principle of "a reflection on the tradition of sport," loosely connecting the new minimalism to Adidas' 60th anniversary and the simplicity of the triple stripe.

Following suit, the clothes were somewhat underwhelming, with lots of black sporty separates edged in various places with a strip of triple stripe. These are the things that will presumably stock the shelves of Y-3's soon-to-be two New York stores. (A second one opens in Soho this Tuesday.) The Yohji direction was evident in some places: crinkled-mesh T-shirt dresses, some layered over striped or logoed tees; patch-pocketed dirndl skirts worn with bright tops; and the interesting idea of sliced shoulders and hanging sleeves. The show ended with a pair of brides, sneakers on and veils held in place by oversize baseball caps, mixing French tradition with American insanity. We'll call the look La Mariée Runaway.