Andrew Gn
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 4, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
"There's no big theme, nothing intellectual, but I am pronouncing the end of this bloody recession," Andrew Gn said backstage, pointing out that sell-throughs in the States have been up since Labor Day. Fortified by that little bit of good news, he sent out a Spring collection with as many lavish embellishments as ever. There was no scaling down here, or in the client-heavy crowd. The only thing that rivaled the colorful gems and metallic embroidery on the runway was the bling on Gn's socialite customers in the front row.Jeweled embellishments accenting the waist or the shoulders were the through-line of a collection that embraced everything from white guipure lace and organza tops (youthful with a pair of silk faille shorts) to a sleek black moiré le smoking (less louche than the YSL original, but still sexy). Slender sheaths in "patio prints" based on upholstery fabric from the fifties and sixties should appeal to the designer's artier fans, while the gowns in notice-me shades of violet, teal, and jade were no doubt made with his party girls in mind. There was an almost random, something-for-everyone quality to this unrepentantly luxe show. These days, though, that's probably smart business for a small brand like Gn's.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
