Altuzarra
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 12, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Last season's impressive debut stocked the front row at Joseph Altuzarra's Spring show with retailers. They must've left happy, because he delivered on the promise of that first show, and then some.Sensing it was time for a break with the 1980's, which have been so popular lately among young designers, he went in a more 1970's direction. Patchwork and "taking clothes apart" were his fixations for Spring, he said backstage. But we're not talking about any old hippie-dippy patchworks. Altuzarra mixed expensive white eyelet and Swiss dot with brown suede and swatches of basket weave into fitted apron dresses that didn't leave a lot to the imagination. He worked the same materials into jackets, vests, and pants that were more covered up but no less sexy.
Altuzarra designed at Givenchy under Riccardo Tisci, who's about as hot as it gets in the fashion world right now. There are clearly similarities in the hyperfeminine sensibility of both designers' clothes. But Altuzarra is no copy artist. What's such a turn-on about him is his confidence. A pair of white ponchos, one hip length, the other long, with diamond stenciling at the hems, were pretty sensational—as gutsy and cool as the Heart song playing on the soundtrack. We're betting they made the It girls in the audience suddenly rethink all of the body-con clothes currently hanging in their closets.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
