Aquilano.Rimondi
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 27, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Roberto Capucci is one of haute couture's most underappreciated practitioners, so it was a pleasant surprise to hear the newly minted Italian stars Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi name-checking the designer and his achievements, along with those of other semi-obscure Italian couturiers like Pino Lancetti and Andrea Odicini. The designers turned out an unrepentantly joyful ode to the heyday of Roman couturiers in deluxe Italian fabrics, like jewel-tone brocade (used here for a slightly puffed-shouldered double-breasted coat-dress) and a lush rose and gold lamé (the basis for a strapless party frock with a voluptuous bow at the back of the waist). It got more ornate from there: The patchworked bottle green lamés of a long shirtdress and a pair of tiny miniskirts were inspired, we're told, by Monet and Gaudí. To appreciate those looks, they must be studied close-up; the runway just doesn't do them justice.That was only part of the story, though. Aquilano and Rimondi also wove a legitimately sporty sensibility into the collection. Sharply tailored safari jackets, belted dresses, and vests mingled with the shiny cocktail-hour fare. Still, it was just about as far removed from Milan's drift toward rawness and transparency as you can get. Some of the looks would read as over-the-top in any season (a bustier minidress trailing a bow and topping a be-ruffled blouse, for instance), but in a Spring relatively short on full-on glamour, many of these clothes were standouts.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
