Basso & Brooke
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 22, 2009
By Tim Blanks
What Bruno Basso can't do with digital print probably isn't worth doing. Neo-pop, the theme of Basso & Brooke's Spring collection, gave him a tailor-made opportunity to duplicate on fabric (and micro sequin) the wildly lurid work of Jeff Koons. What's more, it neatly trailed back to Basso's psychedelic exploration of the natural world last season.New for Spring was a stronger interest in black and white, apparently inspired by the photos of Herb Ritts and intended as a counterpoint to all the color. It looked dramatic in a coral print and in the streak of lightning that zapped one half of a bifurcated graphic (the other half was a riot of pink). It also made its presence felt in the beading that covered the body of a dress with printed fan pleats below the waist. That item was an excessive little thing, but it worked. Elsewhere, the never-enough notion was tested to its limits. The Lurex jacquard was a little de trop, especially when it had the bad luck to be paired with a metallic leather jacket in lurid yellow. The shapes, which Christopher Brooke had been streamlining so that the prints could shine, felt tricksier, more froufrou than usual. And a pouf dress printed with the names of fashion magazines was an oddly literal misstep. Better editing would have helped.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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