"Fall was strong and moody," Bibhu Mohapatra
said of his debut season, "and this time around, I wanted everything to be light, airy, and wearable." For the most part, he succeeded. The designer (who put in time at J. Mendel before going solo) became intrigued with X-rays after being subjected to a series for his new green card. In turn, he began exploring the armature of bodies and playing with the idea of visibility. A white linen blazer with a delicate spinelike lace-up back was beautiful, as was a cropped jacket trimmed in layers of sheer organza. But Mohapatra was heavy-handed at times, as in the case of an otherwise lovely chiffon gown weighed down with an explosion of square appliqués. Additionally, a rubberized anorak felt out of place among all the eveningwear. One gets the sense that the designer is still finding his footing, but Mohapatra's assured technique and penchant for special-occasion dressing should ensure that his star continues to rise.