Carolina Herrera
NEW YORK, September 14, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Aside from a bit of front-row intrigue—news of company president Mario Grauso's departure from Carolina Herrera was in this morning's paper, and there he was sitting with his wife, Anne—the mood was positively decorous at today's show. But isn't it always? Herrera's program notes explained that the collection's starting point was the intricate forms woven in Japanese baskets. A rarefied inspiration, to be sure, and one that meant there was plenty of surface interest to take in on the clothes, from an intriguing vest-jacket woven in gray linen jacquard to a strapless white dress embroidered with tiny wooden tiles.Counterbalancing the clearly luxe materials was a surprising push into silhouettes that were, if not quite downtown, then certainly younger looking: Thigh-baring shorts accompanied jackets for a new (to Herrera, at least) take on the summer suit. Fresh evening separates, like an ivory satin toile long-sleeve blouse and matching long skirt shared the runway with gowns and column dresses. And, yes, there was even a jumpsuit—it was belted and strapless, with cropped full legs, and came in a deep brick-red gazar.
But for all of the laudable experimentation with new shapes, there was a clunkiness to some of Herrera's other, more familiar looks. The rope-weave jacquard of a tea-length dress sagged in the bodice and added volume to the hips, and a rose chiffon gown with a bugle-beaded top didn't have the signature polish of the collection's winner, a bronze one-shoulder gown with parallel lines of gold embroidery tracing the outline of its model's body. That number walked the line between youth and sophistication.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
