September 13, 2009 New York
Counterbalancing the clearly luxe materials was a surprising push into silhouettes that were, if not quite downtown, then certainly younger looking: Thigh-baring shorts accompanied jackets for a new (to Herrera, at least) take on the summer suit. Fresh evening separates, like an ivory satin toile long-sleeve blouse and matching long skirt shared the runway with gowns and column dresses. And, yes, there was even a jumpsuit—it was belted and strapless, with cropped full legs, and came in a deep brick-red gazar.
But for all of the laudable experimentation with new shapes, there was a clunkiness to some of Herrera's other, more familiar looks. The rope-weave jacquard of a tea-length dress sagged in the bodice and added volume to the hips, and a rose chiffon gown with a bugle-beaded top didn't have the signature polish of the collection's winner, a bronze one-shoulder gown with parallel lines of gold embroidery tracing the outline of its model's body. That number walked the line between youth and sophistication.