September 20, 2009 London
At 27, Kane has already developed his own way of building emotion in a room. This time, it was to the compelling, melancholy sound of gospel and spirituals—such an odd choice that it had members of the audience pushing backstage to find out what was going on in his head. "I saw a documentary about the Jonestown mass suicides in Guyana in 1978, so I started thinking about religious cultism," he said. "But that only happened at the end. I was also looking at a photo of Nancy Reagan on the White House lawn, and the movie Lolita. I loved Jeremy Irons' tailored vest in the remake. So that's where the suiting came from."
Putting aside whether Kane's view of America will stir up a furor, the product, in all its detail, is quite brilliantly produced. That goes as much for the slash-shoulder cashmere sweaters and checked crop tops as it does for the dresses, which are made in London. That precision, and the whiff of something disturbing running under the charming surface of this collection, means Christopher Kane has scored yet again.