October 03, 2009
On the same morning that Karl Lagerfeld took pains to emphasize the un-brevity of the shorts he was showing, Ennio Capasa paraded the most impossibly tiny variants of the same idea. His premise was "tender heart, tough exterior," which possibly explained the biker-chick combo of jacket and shorts in a rich, vegetable-dyed leather. Maybe the same woman would also be galvanized by the brocade bib or the embossed tee that offered a more elaborate accompaniment to her truncated nethers. But Capasa's heart really seemed to be in the outfits that dissolved into trailing lamé threads. OK, it may be an effect he's used before, but still, the floating shimmer created a ghostlike effect. In fact, Ghost (as in the currently revived English label) was a timely reference point for witchy, thigh-slashed dresses that would be entirely suitable for the contemporary vampire queen's closet. A potential catch being, how many of those creatures actually exist?