Davidelfin

NEW YORK, September 10, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Though David Delfin is new to New York—he's based in Madrid, his real name is Diego David Domínguez González, and this is only his second showing here—this spring he actually marks ten years in the business, as well as a decade with his partner. In a mood to celebrate, Delfin set himself an unusual challenge: no black. The models would step onto the runway through a wall of fringe, clad only in green, navy, and white—a palette inspired by the Polychromie of Le Corbusier.

Androgyny is central to the Davidelfin aesthetic, as are one-sleeved looks. While the latter, as of today, seemed a bit last-season, the mannish looks were more successful, with strict shirts and ties and some very wearable-looking trousers. According to the program, the collection had a "Reality gets confused" theme, which was reflected in pants that hid behind a skirt front; a top-and-cardigan ensemble that turned out to really be a shirtdress; and, yes, the obligatory skorts. Although well-executed and interesting conceptually, these pieces might pose something of a challenge on the selling floor, especially in hospital green, not a safe color by any means.

The real standouts here were the knits (like a long sweater belted and paired with a tulle skirt and fierce color-blocked Christian Louboutins) and the jersey pieces (minidresses draped in front or with an unexpected fall in the back). Although the pacing was too slow, the show was focused and had an individual point of view, and for that we say olé!

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