Davidelfin
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Though David Delfin is new to New York—he's based in Madrid, his real name is Diego David Domínguez González, and this is only his second showing here—this spring he actually marks ten years in the business, as well as a decade with his partner. In a mood to celebrate, Delfin set himself an unusual challenge: no black. The models would step onto the runway through a wall of fringe, clad only in green, navy, and white—a palette inspired by the Polychromie of Le Corbusier.Androgyny is central to the Davidelfin aesthetic, as are one-sleeved looks. While the latter, as of today, seemed a bit last-season, the mannish looks were more successful, with strict shirts and ties and some very wearable-looking trousers. According to the program, the collection had a "Reality gets confused" theme, which was reflected in pants that hid behind a skirt front; a top-and-cardigan ensemble that turned out to really be a shirtdress; and, yes, the obligatory skorts. Although well-executed and interesting conceptually, these pieces might pose something of a challenge on the selling floor, especially in hospital green, not a safe color by any means.
The real standouts here were the knits (like a long sweater belted and paired with a tulle skirt and fierce color-blocked Christian Louboutins) and the jersey pieces (minidresses draped in front or with an unexpected fall in the back). Although the pacing was too slow, the show was focused and had an individual point of view, and for that we say olé!
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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