Dolce & Gabbana
MILAN, September 27, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana looked back to go forward in their Spring show. Much to the pleasure of the audience, the designers removed the runway and flooded the dark space they were showing in with light, a move that evoked something of the atmosphere of their joyous presentations of the nineties. As did the collection—a recapturing of the mannish tailoring and curvy Latin lingerie, see-through lace, café-curtain macramé dresses, and rose-patterned chintzes that were first put through their paces by the likes of Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, and Naomi Campbell. This time, though, the clothes are aimed at a new generation, and the market is global—to which end, Dolce & Gabbana put two bloggers in the front row, who were tapping out their commentaries while the show was going on.There was a South American angle this time—silk fringing on black lace dresses and spiffy suitings that might suggest the denizens of a tango bar. Really, though, the classic extremes of masculine and feminine illustrated here go back to Domenico Dolce's Sicilian childhood and all the things he saw and learned in a household that centered on his father's business as a tailor. Part of his culture is a Catholic, Southern Italian adoration of the female form—and he and Gabbana gave that full vent when they replaced their traditional finale of overblown ball gowns with a runway thronged with girls in corsets.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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