Donna Karan

NEW YORK, September 14, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Donna Karan had a hit on her hands for Fall. Why mess with a good thing? Tweaking the fabrics and the color palette, she sent out another wearable collection of soft skirtsuits and body-loving draped dresses. She explained that she was "inspired by the power of the elements," namely, from the looks of things, wind. The hem of the opening stretch linen twill jacket, for example, was molded as if the model wearing it had just encountered a stiff breeze on the runway, while the bottom of a linen burlap top worn with a slim pencil skirt was permanently upswept. The effect was a sense of movement and a pretty femininity not always easily achieved in tailoring.

Twisting around the body, Karan's dresses had a weightless, easy appeal. There were stretch matte jerseys in blush, and wrap styles with more volume in gray and white. Among the many pale neutrals she sent down the catwalk, the bold reds (a holdover from her great-looking resort lineup) stood out. The simple lines of a folded envelope dress provided ample opportunity to show off a striking coral belt from Gerda Monies. Some of the other accessories were a bit much; those Stephen Jones hats looked like deflated clouds. The show could also have used a stronger edit, but overall, this was Karan at her modern, unfussy best.

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