September 12, 2009 New York
There were no Steven Tyler high kicks, but it speaks to Øverland's sure hand with her materials—particularly her signature leathers—that the overwhelmingly body-defining clothes moved and fit with such ease. The designer aimed to expand her go-to palette of black and bone with "color that doesn't seem like color." Meeting this koanlike criterion were flesh tones. They ranged from the quiet calm of a gorgeous rose-nude perforated lambskin dress—high-necked but back-baring—to the glam attitude of a peachy metallic leather blazer and silk trousers.
Øverland pushed out even further with the odd shot of red in a strapless dress set with nude panels, a subtler take on her Mexican wrestling mask inspiration. But of course, despite lighter moments like a cream spotted crepe jumpsuit or a white leather jacket and dress, there was still lots of black, seen not only in leather but also in glazed organza with sequins. That's likely not a problem for Øverland's girl. At any rate, her strong and sexy collection was easily worthy of the runway, even if it didn't exactly scream spring.