Erdem
LONDON, September 22, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Looking at almost any piece in Erdem Moralioglu's Spring/Summer collection is to be drawn into a world of surreally intense color and decoration. Take his opening dress: a flower garden of minute overlapping 3-D embroidered violet and yellow pansies on a bed of green. Or a china-blue taffeta puff-sleeved, bell-skirted dress overlaid with scattered fragments of black French lace. Or a pair of matching silk shorts and a "samurai" T-shirt with tablike pie frill at the neck and shoulder, covered with another multicolored pansy print on a lime background. "I really didn't want anything blurred this season," Moralioglu said. "I wanted it to have a surreal focus." He attributed some of the feeling to the visual jolt he felt at being immersed in Japanese art and culture on a trip to Kyoto and Miyajima island this summer. Mostly, he traces the mood of his show to looking at twenties illustrations of modan garus (a Japanese phonetic translation of "modern girls"), who rejected the kimono and started wearing Western dress. "Although," he shrugged, "I never really do theme. I always think it should just be like reading the next chapter of the same book." Moralioglu's shoes, a fusion of Mary Janes and geisha wedges, also smothered in printed flowery fabric, ended up being the only overt clue to the designer's Asian sources, not that it mattered very much. The main point is that he is moving forward, at the right speed. He's not leaving his signatures behind (like the lace-covered mackintosh trench) but adding simpler items, like the silk T-shirts, while becoming ever more recognizably exceptional.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
