Fashion East
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 22, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Fashion East has a breakout star. She's Holly Fulton, a Scottish textile designer who, since her last tentative showing of a few Art Deco paillette-embroidered T-shirts, has made a stunning leap forward, emerging this season with the whole package: bright, embellished dresses and plastic and crystal neckpieces, earrings, bangles, and printed clutches. As a total summer look, zinging with yellow, orange, white, and peacock blue, it totally worked; there was nothing of the awkward student trying too hard about it, just a wearably chic yet quirky sixties-via-Deco look, with outstanding color sense and decoration loaded into every piece. Fulton, who said her collection had been triggered by an Eduardo Paolozzi work called Wittgenstein in New York, received her M.A. at London's Royal College of Art, as did the second designer on the runway, Heikki Salonen. A Finn who has worked with Erdem, Salonen's collection consisted of young, down-to-earth tailoring pieces like vests, walking shorts, and monochrome prints, the starting points of which were English tradition and Scandinavian movies: He'd been watching Ingmar Bergman's Persona. Also making his debut was Michael Van Der Ham, an alum of Central Saint Martins, who brings the promise of a refreshing kind of glamour to the runway. Patchwork is too folksy a word to describe how he scissors away at mismatching bolts of vintage gold brocades, couture florals, and seventies Lurex and assembles asymmetric and potentially glamourous dresses from them. Van Der Ham, who is Dutch, has also won New Generation funding. Next season, let's hope he'll be back with as much polish as Holly Fulton.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
