Graeme Black
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 20, 2009
By Tim Blanks
At Graeme Black's show a year ago, he spun an atmospheric backstory that the subsequent catwalk presentation didn't live up to. It happened again for Spring 2010. Black imagined a world where the extravagance of the maharajas hybridized with British colonial culture in an Art Deco hotbed. There was scene-setting aplenty in the birdsong-and-sitar soundtrack and the wafting dry ice that suggested dawn over the Ganges. The extravagance was taken care of by the real jewelry (by Moussaieff), which required 20 bodyguards. But, inspirations aside, Black always seems to picture a woman dressing for life on a 24/7 red carpet. If the Raj was reflected in jewel-toned silks and there was a khaki hint of the military Brit in epauletted jackets and jodhpurs, the heart of the collection was really a heyday-of-Hollywood glamour. That meant dresses shirred or draped or fishtailed and jersey gowns trailing trains or worn with sandals for that at-home-with-the-Selznicks look. If that sounds casual, it wasn't. Black doesn't really do "relaxed." The daywear that accompanied this glam slam, for example, was exemplified by his first outfit—a white croc jacket, lean white trouser, and maroon silk blouse tied at the waist. The luxe is strictly old-school—bodyguards need apply.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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