Gabriele Colangelo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 25, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Gabriele Colangelo had a tough time slot—8:45 on a Friday night—but he had a big hometown crowd cheering him on and a smart collection that was cohesive and well-made enough to potentially encourage some of the out-of-towner no-shows to book a studio appointment. Before it got started, the 34-year-old designer said he was inspired by an exhibition of paintings by the late German-French artist Hans Hartung. For the uninitiated, Hartung was known for his gestural, abstract style; the hand-painted scratch motifs on a fil coupe dress and the same design rendered in Swarovski crystals on a micro-beaded evening coat were cribbed from one of his works.It wasn't necessarily the embellishments that impressed, though. The lush, asymmetrical volumes of Colangelo's shift dresses had a clean, unfussy appeal. They were minimal yet still sexy, a tough combination to pull off. And with their sloping, saddled shoulders and pushed-up sleeves, his jackets—which he paired with tapering, cropped pants or narrow Bermuda shorts—looked very right-now. Colangelo comes from a family of furriers, so there were also a couple of oversize short-sleeve jackets in sheared mink—a teaser, maybe, of what he might push further next season. The sleeper hit of Milan? Could well be. This designer is definitely someone retailers should be paying more attention to.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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