Gianfranco Ferré
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 25, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
"Fluid architecture" and "decorated minimalism." Those were Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi's talking points backstage at Gianfranco Ferré. Sounds tricky, but the collection, the duo's third for the house, was their lightest and least encumbered so far. Working with sheer, weightless organzas, gazars, and lamés in shades of ivory, nude, and gold, they whipped up airy tops, bubble skirts, and cocooning coats, along with frothy little party dresses. But if that suggests the designers were taking a completely straightforward approach, that wasn't the case. Pleating, folding, wrapping, and what looked like gold-leafing came into the picture, creating all sorts of surface interest. Sometimes a little too much: The bust of one evening number was awkwardly encased in thin metal tubes.Addressing the tailoring portion of Ferré's legacy, the designers came up with a modern take on the suit while keeping the ultra-femme mood going. How? By adding peekaboo keyholes lined with satin lapels to blouses and draping their trousers with suggestive swags of fabric from a high waist to the hips.
Sandals with metal scaffolding for heels weighed down this gossamer-light collection. But overall, high marks.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
