Gucci
MILAN, September 26, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Like so many others this season, Frida Giannini opened her show with white—a taut, multi-strapped dress that put Gucci on a glam, athletic, almost sci-fi path that she kept to with energy and conviction. It was a modernist streak she's avoided in the past, preferring to take her girl into the realms of hippie and disco, but the change of direction gave the show a turbo-charged shot of adrenaline, ranking it as the best Giannini has done yet.The program notes said she had started off thinking about a little black dress, but for some reason that didn't appear until the midsection. What came first was actually better: jackets and high-waisted stretch leggings, inset with sections of sports mesh and lashed through the torso and outside leg with crisscross lacings of rubber piping, bristling with silver hardware. Motocross and minimized parachute jackets and crocodile bikers all came out—the sort of thing a Gucci girl loves. As it developed, Giannini stepped it up, laying on more harnesses, opening the backs of blazers to reveal bare skin, adding more metal, more sparkle—the kind of Gucci-glamour sensationalism that had somehow slipped out the door in the past few years.
Midway came a drop in speed when the show took a detour around ikat print—an odd thing to add, and probably a hedge against losing the customer who has gone for the folkloric side of Gucci recently. Still, Giannini got back on track when the color disappeared and the pattern of the ikat was transformed into silvery needle-sharp embroidery on short black body-dresses. At the end came a robot-woman dress that was totally encased in a tubular web of metallic and crystal beading—as rock-star performance-ready as anything that's been shown so far this season. It had absolutely nothing to do with the drifty, bucolic, romantic themes that are wafting up and down other runways, but you could see exactly who'll want it.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
