Hermès
PARIS, October 7, 2009
By Sarah Mower
It's always hard not to slip in an obvious pun when describing a collection Jean Paul Gaultier has his hands on: So at Hermès, it was a case of Love All. Tennis, you may have guessed, was his theme, and he delivered like a pro to give a topspin to Hermès' timeless classics. In a Spring when little kilts, black-and-white graphics, and easy sportswear are all newly desirable, Gaultier served up variations on tennis skirts, longline cardigans, dressing gowns, and club T-shirts (the latter grown into long, fluid jersey evening columns). A creamy lizard Birkin even came with a matching ball bag attached.Joking aside, it's a rare skill to be able to pull off a trend without being that horribly disposable thing, "trendy." If a woman goes to Hermès, it's with the intention of buying something that will stay in her wardrobe for years. This collection faultlessly delivered on exactly that point, covering haute necessities from beautiful daywear (caramel leather dresses, a blue suede "umpire" blazer) to chic-casual looks for early evening (a black chiffon blouse, jacket, and knife-pleat skirt with sheer inserts) and sinuously simple navy or white ankle-skimming dresses cut to knock the competition dead at any number of indoor or outdoor summer events. Quietly, the show also established Hermès' supremacy in discreet jewelry. Fine strands of silver-link chains, worn as pendants or as belts, were a styling choice so compelling they might even shift the current aesthetic away from gold.
Clever, witty, and perfectly timed, this collection reaffirmed the position of the leather and accessories house of the rue Saint-Honoré in the Parisian top league, exactly where it belongs.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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