Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose? Non. That was not the order of business at Hervé Léger by Max Azria today. Sure, some things had stayed the same: the venue, for one. And the front row was as starlet-heavy as usual (albeit an uncanny amalgam ranging from Hilary Duff, Mischa Barton, and Tinsley Mortimer to Lissy Trullie, Jen Brill, and Leigh Lezark). But the collection has evolved this season, becoming not only more nuanced, through the use of unexpected fabrics and homespun techniques like braiding and crochet, but—dare we say it?—just a little bit country.

"Dusty sands and desert skies" inspired the neutral palette, and tonal embellishments were effectively applied to sandy, nude, and cream-colored dresses, giving them tactile interest. Dimensional ribbon work on flared dresses had a real horse-opera appeal. And we're absolutely sure that no cowgirl could get the blues wearing one of the holler-for-more denim pieces.